colombia

Posted: 6/6/19 | June 6th, 2019

A trip to Colombia wasn’t going to break the bank. I knew that much.

But would it be a bargain?

Only a visit there would tell me for sure.

And so, earlier this year, I spent over five weeks there, varying my time between dorm rooms and cooking my own food on the one hand and staying in boutique hotels and eating luxury meals on the other.

I can tell you that while people are right — Colombia isn’t going to break your bank — if you’re not careful, your costs can escalate quickly, especially if you indulge in the up-and-coming gastronomy scene.

So how much does it cost to visit Colombia?

And how can you save money there?

Let’s break it down and go over my trip as an example.

How much did I spend?

Over the course of 37 days, I spent $2,908.50 USD, or $78.60 per day. Here’s how that breaks down:

• Accommodation – 3,690,531 COP ($1122.10 USD)
• Food – 3,231,903 COP ($982.66 USD)
• Drinks (Starbucks, water, tea, etc.) – 183,488 COP ($55.78 USD)
• Alcoholic drinks – 691,170 COP ($210.15 USD)
• Taxis – 386,000 COP ($117.36 USD)
• Public transportation – 37,000 COP ($11.25 USD)
• Intercity buses – 238,200 COP ($72.42 USD)
• Uber – 518,447 COP ($157.63 USD)
• Walking/day tours- 541,500 COP ($164.64 USD)
• Miscellany (Band-Aids, soap, etc.) – 47,650 COP ($14.48 USD)

Total: 9,565,889 COP ($2908.50)

I spent so much money for two reasons: I stayed in a lot of hotels, and I ate out at a lot of fancy restaurants. They destroyed my budget. If it wasn’t for those things, I figure I would have spent about $1,000 less (thanks, Cartagena, for those lovely but pricey boutique hotels!) or around $53 per day, which isn’t too bad, and closer to my ideal $50 a day budget.

I don’t have any regrets, though. I had a lot of friends visit me and it was hard to convince them to stay in hostels and eat cheap meals. They wanted to splurge in the few days they had.

How much do you need to travel in Colombia?

Accommodation – Most hostel dorm rooms in Colombia cost between 30,000-45,000 COP ($9-14 USD) per night, though in smaller cities and towns you can find them as low 23,048 COP ($7 USD) per night. You can sometimes find them that low in the big cities but the facilities tend to be pretty meh. Private hostel rooms start around 50,000 COP ($15.50 USD), though during the high season and in major metropolitan areas, you’ll likely spend double that.

Budget hotels in Colombia start around 60,000 COP ($18 USD) per night. On the coast and in the high season, you’ll find most places will be closer to around 120,000 ($36 USD) per night. If you’re looking to stay at some of the really nice boutique hotels the country has to offer, you should expect to pay around 658,533 COP ($200 USD) or more a night.

Airbnb is available in the larger cities, with shared accommodation prices starting around 35,000 COP ($11 USD) per night. For an entire home or apartment, prices start at 90,000 COP ($28 USD) but average closer to 250,000 COP ($78 USD) per night.

Food – Most of the local food is around 10,000-15,000 COP ($3-5 USD) per meal. You can find a lot for around 5,000-10,000 ($1.50-3 USD) in the countryside. You can also find a lot of cheap food like empanadas for like 200-500 COP ($0.06-0.15 USD) (they make the best snack food). An arepa on the street will be about 3,000 COP ($0.90 USD). Ceviche, which is popular throughout the country, is around 15,000 COP ($4.55 USD).

Most “Western” food will cost about 20,000-30,000 COP ($6-9 USD) each, or 15,000 COP ($4.55 USD) if you get fast food like McDonald’s or Subway. You can find some really expensive food in the country so prices just go up from that. Beer at the bar can be found for as little as 2,500 COP ($0.75 USD) but, on average, you’re likely to pay double that a backpacker bar. Cocktails, which are becoming really popular here, cost around 20,000 COP ($6 USD).

Grocery shopping is very cheap, costing about 110,000 COP ($34 USD) per week if you plan on buying your own groceries.

Transportation – Local transportation is cheap. The metro in Medellin is only around 2,500 COP ($0.76 USD) for a one-way fare. Local buses are the most common type of transportation in towns and cities. The fare is usually between 1,000-2,5000 COP ($0.30-0.80 USD).

Uber (a ridesharing service) is way cheaper than taxis and you can pretty much get anywhere for around 16,463 COP ($5 USD). You can save $15 off your first Uber ride with this code: jlx6v.

Intercity buses are the best way to get around Colombia. A bus from Bogota to Medellin will cost around 65,000 COP ($20 USD) while a bus to Quito, Ecuador from Bogota will cost around 175,000 COP ($54 USD). Medellin to Manizales is 42,000 COP ($12.75 USD) and Salento to Cali is about 27,000 COP ($8.20 USD). On average, you’ll probably spend 20,000-40,000 ($6-12 USD) for a bus, more if you’re going over 9 hours.

Companies like Bolivariano, Expreso Palmira, and Trejos are all good companies and they make it easy to research schedules and fares on their websites.

Tours – Most tours cost around 30,000 COP ($9 USD) and most museums are 10,000 COP ($3 USD) or less.

I don’t think you need to spend a lot of money in Colombia. On a backpacker’s budget, you’ll probably spend about 160,000 COP ($48 USD) per day. This is assuming you’re staying in a hostel, eating local food, cooking some of your own meals, and using local transportation to get around. You’ll roughly spend around 60,000 COP ($18 USD) per day on hostels, 30,000-40,000 ($9-12 USD) on food, and 60,000 COP ($18 USD) on everything else. If you plan to drink a lot, do more tours, or eat a lot more Western food, I’d probably budget between 181,097-197,560 COP ($55-60 USD) per day.

On a mid-range budget of about 306,000 COP ($92 USD) per day, you can afford a private room at a hostel, Airbnb, or hotel; eat anywhere you want within reason (splurging once in a while); fly a couple of times, and take whatever tours you want. You’re going to spend around 99,000-132,000 COP ($30-40 USD) per night on lodging, 99,000 ($30 USD) on food, and 99,000 ($30 USD) on everything else.

If you’re going to stick to more luxury hotels, meals, drink more, or not use any points, I’d budget maybe 329,266 COP ($100 USD) or so a day.

After that, the sky is really the limit.

I found my trip a good in between. In the next section, I’ll talk more about how to save money in Colombia but, overall, I didn’t really want for anything on my trip. I ate cheap when I wanted, balanced my partying, cooked some food, used hotel points when I could, took public transportation as much as I could, and, just overall, tried to balance the two budget types above.

How to save money in Colombia

You don’t need to do a lot to save money in Colombia. It’s relatively cheap to visit, and there are a lot of good deals throughout the country.

Accommodation is inexpensive unless you are staying at major hotels chains. Hostels are cheap (especially when you leave the big cities) and there are a lot of great value local hotels throughout the country. There are a ton of markets with cheap food. Local attractions are cheap. Buses are cheap. Really, if you travel as your average Colombian lives, you’ll be hard pressed to spend a lot.

Here are my 12 tips on how to save money in Colombia:

Eat like locals – It’s easy to eat on a budget here if you stick to local Colombian food. You can also find a lot of cheap food like empanadas for like 200-500 COP ($0.06-0.15 USD) (they make the best snack food). An arepa on the street will be about 3,000 COP ($0.90 USD). Ceviche, which is popular throughout the country, is around 15,000 COP ($4.55 USD). In the countryside, you can find meals closer to 10,000 COP ($3 USD)! In short: eat local, eat cheap. Sure, Colombian food isn’t the healthiest (it’s heavy on meat and fried food) but it is filling and inexpensive.

Skip the cocktails – Colombia has a lot of awesome cocktail bars now — especially in Medellín — but these drinks are expensive, usually costing around 20,000 COP ($6 USD) (sometimes up to 30,000 COP, or $9 USD). I mean, that’s crazy, especially when beer will cost you around 4,000 COP ($1.25 USD). If you’re on a budget, you should definitely skip the cocktails and stick to beer.

Cook your food – While local food is really cheap, you can also save some money by grocery shopping, although I didn’t find it to be a great value. It cost me 50,568 COP ($15 USD) for three days of food (plus, the hostels had terrible cooking facilities). If you do shop, I recommend getting breakfast food or snacks and eating meals out. You get more bang for your buck that way.

Avoid the hostels on the Caribbean coast – The hostels on the Caribbean coast were pretty lackluster. They were expensive and didn’t have great facilities, especially the bigger “resort” ones in beachside towns like Palomino. Instead, you can find comparatively cheap budget hotels on Booking.com for less than a private room and only slightly more than a dorm bed.

Avoid Gringolands – Everything where the gringos are is double the normal price. Avoid staying in areas with lots of tourists and expats, like Poblado in Medellín, Cartagena’s Old Town, or Park 93 in Bogotá, since you’ll end up paying more for everything.

Couchsurf – Nothing’s cheaper than free. Couchsurfing connects you with locals who will not only give you a free place to stay but also serve as a local tour guide and introduce you to the cool stuff only locals know about in town! You’ll find the most hosts in college towns and big cities.

Fly Viva Air – If you’re planning to fly around Colombia, the best deals are on Viva Air. It has the cheapest fares in the country (though it flies to the fewest places). It’s best to book a few weeks in advance. (LAN and Avianca, the two major carriers, also have deals sometimes.)

Use miles and points – You can use your miles on both LAN (part of Oneworld) and Avianca (part of Star Alliance). There are also a lot of hotel chains for which you can use points. If you have miles and/or points, you can burn through a lot of them in Colombia — and the redemption rates are really good too!

Avoid the airline surcharge – Non-Colombians are charged higher ticket prices than locals. If you look at the non-local version of the website, you won’t see the super saver cheap fares. To get around this, load up the local Spanish versions of an airlines’ websites. Then use your browser extension to translate the pages and book away! You’ll see the cheaper, Colombian prices, and no one will challenge you at check-in about your ticket fare.

Take Uber – Uber is by far the cheapest way to get around Bogotá, Cali, and Medellín. It’s about 1/3 as much as taxis. (Note: Uber is actually illegal, so don’t sit in the back seat or you might get stopped.) I also like to tip the Uber drivers here, since the fares are so cheap and they are taking a risk. But all the drivers I met did this out of necessity — they couldn’t pay their bills if it wasn’t for Uber.

Haggle with taxi drivers – There are no meters in Colombia. While prices from the airports are regulated and non-negotiable, everything else is just a matter of your bargaining skills. If you’re going to take taxis, haggle before you get in the car.

Take free walking tours – Most major and medium-sized cities in Colombia have free walking tours. They are a good way to see the city on a budget and learn by asking your guide questions. Here are some of my favorites:

• Free Walking Tour Cartagena
• Free Walking Tour Bogota
• Real City Tours Medellin

Colombia is a pretty affordable country if you watch your spending on food and accommodation. On most days, when I wasn’t eating fancy dinners, I found myself spending less than 134,850 COP ($40 USD), especially if I was staying in dorms. Prices are also a lot cheaper in the southern and eastern parts of the country — I was paying 25,000 COP ($7.50 USD) a night for my own room in Popayan and about a quarter for empanadas!

In short, Colombia is easy to visit on a budget. Since you already know how much I love the place, you won’t be surprised that I recommend you book a trip (and try some of the delicious cuisine)!

The post How Much Does it Cost to Travel Colombia? appeared first on Nomadic Matt's Travel Site.

Posted: 4/18/2019 | April 18th, 2019

From the blue waters of Tayrona National Park, the sweeping views of the Cocora Valley, and the ruins of San Agustín, Tierradentro, and the Lost City, to the white colonial buildings of Popayán and the hustle and bustle of its metropolises, Colombia is packed with things to see and do.

I’d wanted to visit Colombia for years. And after spending six weeks there, I must say, it lived up to the hype.

I mean I’ve been fawning over it a lot in my last few posts. And I know I’m the millionth blogger to do so, but it really is as incredible as people say. (Even getting knifed there couldn’t stop me from loving the country.)

I had falsely assumed that six weeks would be enough to get a good sense of Colombia. After all, six weeks is a fair amount of time to spend anywhere.

But I was wrong. Given its size and the sheer number of activities, it was barely enough to scratch the surface.

Yet I did manage to see a lot.

Today I want to share my list of what I think are the best things to see and do in Colombia. These are the activities and places you should try to focus on when you visit:

1. Cartagena

Cartagena is one of the most visited destinations in Colombia (thanks to a lot of direct flights and cruise ship visits). Dating back to 1533, the city is famed for its colonial Old Town: a maze of cobbled alleys, flower-covered balconies, and giant churches on spacious plazas.

But despite the crowds (and there are a lot of crowds), I really enjoyed Cartagena. While there aren’t a lot of tourist activities (you can do most of them in a single day), what makes it a wonderful place to visit is just that: it’s somewhere you can slow down, relax, and gorge on the phenomenal gastronomy.

For more, check out this blog post about Cartegena and all my favorite places to eat there.

2. Tayrona National Park

Located on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, Tayrona has long stretches of golden beaches lined with coconut palms and a dense rainforest with lots of easy day hikes. You’ll also find campsites for overnight stays, hammocks for rent, restaurants, diving, and horse riding.

It’s easy to visit as a day trip from Santa Marta. I highly suggest you start early at the big entrance at El Zaino and exit the park through Calabazo. This underused route takes a whole day, and once you pass the Cabo San Juan campground, you’ll get the last half of the trail to yourself. Try to avoid visiting during January and weekends, when the crowds on the beaches and hiking paths are at their peak.

3. The Lost City (La Ciudad Perdida)

The Lost City was built around 800 CE and contains 169 terraces carved into the mountains, as well as a network of tiled roads and small plazas. It’s one of the most beautiful treks in the country, and the site is older than Machu Picchu! To visit, you need to hire a tour operator (you can’t do it by yourself). It’s about $300-350 USD for the trek from Santa Marta through the jungle up to these beautiful ruins and takes 4–6 days. If you’re pressed for time, you can also do it in three days; the only difference is the pace you go at.

(Tip: You cross a lot of rivers, so be sure to bring an extra pair of shoes or flip flops for when you cross the rivers. You’ll easily ruin a pair of sneakers along the way.)

4. Salento

Surrounded by green mountains and coffee farms, this is one of the oldest towns in the coffee-growing region and the most popular for travelers. The houses are painted a variety of vibrant colors, and the high vantage points throughout town provide some stunning views (sunsets are quite magical). There’s not much to do in the city itself — it’s simply a base for coffee tours or hiking the Cocora Valley (see below) or the trails around town — so it’s easy to spend a few days here watching the world go by with a good book in hand.

5. Cocora Valley

The Cocora Valley is home to Colombia’s national tree, the wax palm, which grows to nearly 200 feet tall. This area has probably the most popular day hike in the country (which was also my favorite activity during my entire trip). You’ll cross jungle rivers, visit a bird sanctuary, and enjoy some stellar views and forest scenery. The route’s about five hours, and you can choose to either take the clockwise or counterclockwise route. The clockwise route, starting at the Wax Palm Valley, is easier, with fewer hills. Counterclockwise is easier at the end, though a little anticlimactic, as you end the hike walking down a boring road.

(Tip: Start early to avoid the brutal midday heat, since there are a lot of exposed areas here.)

6. Bogotá

Bogotá is Colombia’s vibrant capital. While it’s not the country’s most popular destination, it felt the most “Colombian” to me: there was just a certain edge and charm to it, and it seemed the least touristy, with the fewest gringo expats. The historic downtown, La Candelaria, is filled with bright colonial buildings, detailed museums, delicious restaurants, tiny fun bars, historic churches, and centuries-old houses. The north end of town is home to boutique hotels and entertainment areas like Zona Rosa and Zona G. The foodie scene in the city is incredible, with a lot of international options and cutting-edge gastronomic happenings. Throw in some amazing walking tours, day trips, and hikes and you’ve got a recipe for an astounding city.

For more, here’s a list of all my favorite things to do – and places to eat – in Bogota.

7. Cali

This hot, hot city is the salsa capital of the world, where people come to dance. A lot of the guests at my hostel had been there for weeks to learn (the hostels also offer free dance classes). If you like to dance, you can’t miss this city. Besides dancing, though, there are a number of parks, museums, and churches you can visit, plus free walking and food tours. While I didn’t stay long, I definitely enjoyed the scene.

8. Popayán

Popayán rivals Cartagena as Colombia’s most impressive colonial town. It’s known as La Ciudad Blanca (“The White City”) because all the buildings are painted white. Popayán is also a college town (there are three universities), and it’s produced 17 presidents too! Though small, I really loved the slow pace of life and the surprisingly robust food scene here (eat at La Cosecha Parrillada, Restaurante Italiano y Pizzeria, La Fresa, and Mora de Castilla).

While you don’t need a lot of time (take the walking tour, climb the hill, see the churches, and you’re done), I do suggest staying longer to enjoy the slow pace of life. So much of Colombia is go-go-go, it’s nice to find a place that’s more “stay and relax a while.”

9. Tatacoa Desert

Millions of years ago it was once a lush tropical forest. Now, Tatacoa Desert is filled with rocky canyons in shades of red and gray. It is also home to one of the most important observatories in South America, where you can gaze at the stars (weather permitting). If you want to be blown away by the universe, you really need to see this place! Other than that, there’s not much here. Bike into the desert, take some walks, stare at the sky. Stay a night or two. It’s not a popular area, but it is a picturesque way to break up the long bus ride from Bogotá to the south or vice versa.

10. San Agustín Archaeological Park

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, San Agustín is a small mountain town that’s home to hundreds of pre-Columbian statues and burial mounds. Its collection of religious monuments and megalithic sculptures is the largest in Latin America, for which you’ll need at least one full day (two to really see it all in depth). If you love history, this is probably the best spot in all of Colombia to experience it.

11. San Gil

San Gil is considered the outdoors capital of the country. Extreme-sports fans love it here. You can go white-water rafting, paragliding, caving, rappelling, trekking, and more from this city! This city is a great place to do outdoor activities and you’re going to find a lot of tour operators in the city. Try to plan at least three days here. It’s worth it.

12. Providencia and San Andrés Islands

These islands are actually closer to Nicaragua than Colombia. They are also considered some of the most unspoiled places in the Caribbean. You’ll find white-sand beaches, stunningly clear blue water, and few crowds (though, thanks to some recent press, Providencia is becoming a lot busier).

Try to make it when tens of thousands of black crabs migrate to the sea. This happens twice a year for about a 1-2-week period between April and July, so it’s not always easy to nail the timing.

13. Medellín

In a country full of hype, this hyped-up city is all that it’s cracked up to be. Set in the Aburrá Valley, Medellín is one of the fastest-growing cities in Colombia. It has enough activities and things to do to fill weeks on end: from microbreweries, museums, walking tours, spacious parks, street art, food tours and markets to incredible nightlife, and on and on and on.

It’s one of the most popular destinations for expats and tourists in the country. While it’s easy to get lost in Gringoland here, try to get out of Poblado or Laureles and see the locals’ side of town.

There’s more to the city than those two areas!

14. Guatapé

This pueblo is one of the most picturesque towns in Colombia and one of the most colorful in the world, as most of the traditional homes have murals painted on the bottom half of their façades that depict animals, people, and shapes. Just hanging out in one of the bright plazas, drinking coffee and people-watching, is one of the most pleasant things to do here.

Most people, though, come to climb the steep (and difficult) staircase to the top of the monolithic Rock of Guatapé (La Piedra) for some of the best views in the country. Guatapé is a long day trip from Medellín (hostels in the city organize them throughout the week) so I recommend trying to spend at least a night here so you aren’t as rushed and can enjoy the area little more.

15. Chingaza National Park

This is one of the biggest nature reserves in Colombia, home to more than 1,000 plant species and 187 bird species. Here you’ll learn about the Páramo ecosystem and how it affects the global water system. (Fun fact: Nearly 80% of Bogotá’s water supply comes from Chingaza.) If you’re going to hike, joining a tour is a good idea. The guides are usually naturalists who can explain the unique environment of the area. One of the best routes is the challenging hike to the summit of Lagunas de Siecha, with a great view over the lakes.

16. Barranquilla

Located between Santa Marta and Cartagena, Barranquilla is the spot to be during Carnival, the second biggest in Latin America. It starts on a Sunday with the Battle of Flowers (a big parade) and the coronation of the King and Queen.

But there’s a lot to do here when it’s not carnival season as well. Make sure you visit El Museo del Caribe, a museum offering an interesting insight into the history of Colombia’s Caribbean coast. There’s also a special exhibit dedicated to Gabriel García Márquez (the famous author who wrote Love in the Time of Cholera).

17. Tierradentro

Tierradentro is one of the most important archaeological sites in South America. It’s up there with San Agustín but gets less press since it’s located in the middle of nowhere and not on a main road. It contains over 100 hypogea (underground tombs) dating from the sixth to the tenth centuries, the only examples of their kind in the Americas. It takes a day or two to hike all the paths around the tombs. You can hire a guide if you want, but the trails are pretty easy to do on your own.

18. Manizales (and Los Nevados)

On the road from Medellín to the south is the city of Manizales. Here, you can take some tours at this northern point of the coffee-growing region, or roam around town, which has some decent restaurants and churches, and a scenic gondola ride. The main reason people visit is to hike Los Nevados, a mountain range with majestic snow-capped peaks. You can do a day or multi-day hikes, but whatever you do, don’t rush up to the top — acclimatize yourself to the altitude in Manizales for a few days first. The town is 2,000 meters (6,500 feet) above sea level, but mountains are about 6,000 meters (19,700 feet)! I wasn’t climatized and could really feel the altitude just walking around town. Don’t push yourself if you want to do the hike.

19. The Caribbean Coast

The beaches on the Caribbean coast might not win any awards (at least in my opinion), but the sleepy towns reminded me a lot of the tiny backpacker beach villages around Southeast Asia: a dirt road, lots of hostels, a relaxed atmosphere, and not much else to do. I could easily see why people end up getting stuck here for weeks at a time. The best beach towns to visit are Costeño Beach and Palomino.

20. Punta Gallinas

Punta Gallinas is the northernmost point in all of South America. Most people come here via a tour from Santa Marta or Cabo de Vela, with the latter (through La Guajira Desert) being the better option if you just want to take your time and relax because it’s closer so there’s a lot less drive time. In fact, the only way to see the area is via a tour. Most are two or three nights depending on where you’re coming from. Any hostel can organize a trip for you.

21. Minca

Minca is located in the foothills of the Sierra de Santa Marta Mountains. Once a sleepy backpacker town, it’s now a hot spot for tourists escaping the oppressive heat on the Caribbean coast and hoping to do some quiet hikes. One of the best hikes is to Los Pinos, but it isn’t easy: it takes about three hours from the center of town, and it’s a steady climb into the mountains but, like all things like this, it’s worth it.

There are a lot of waterfalls in the area as well. Two of the best are the Pozo Azul and Marinka. Both have swimming holes at them too.

Be sure to check out the sunset Mundo Nuevo Hostel. It’s an amazing vantage point.

Colombia has a million and one things to do. I lost track of all the places I kept wishing I had time to visit. You can spend months there (and a lot of people to do). However, I think this list is a great start. My recommendation is that if you’re short on time, fly (the bus rides are long) or just stick to one area of the country and go in depth around that region.

Trying to “see it all” in Colombia is just a recipe for burnout!

Photo credits: 4, 10, 11, 12, 18, 19, 21, 22

The post My 21 Favorite Places to Visit in Colombia appeared first on Nomadic Matt's Travel Site.